September 30, 2024 | Learn Everything Leather

What is Vegetable Tanned Leather? - It's Origins, Process, and Expert Care Tips

What is Vegetable Tanned Leather - Origins, Process, and Expert Care Tips

What is Vegetable Tanned Leather? - It's Origins, Process, and Expert Care Tips

Leather has been made and used for thousands of years, and the oldest, most common type is vegetable tanned leather. This traditional method uses tannins—naturally occurring astringents from plants and bark—to create a leather that is both sturdy and timeless. The process can take anywhere from 2 to 30 days, resulting in a stiff, strong material with a light yellow-brown color. It’s no wonder vegetable tanned leather has been the go-to choice for saddlery, luggage, tooling leather, sheaths, and belts for centuries.

With so many possibilities for its use, let’s explore what makes vegetable tanned leather so special, how it’s made, and how you can care for it like a pro. Whether you’re considering it for your next project or simply curious about its lasting appeal, this guide will help you appreciate its craftsmanship and ensure it remains a favorite for years to come.

1. What is Vegetable Tanned Leather?

Vegetable-tanned leather is a type of leather made from natural materials. It is also known as veg-tan leather or tanned leather. Natural elements used to create this leather include tannins (naturally occurring astringents) made from plants and bark. In rawhide, tannins bond to and coat the collagen. This reduces their susceptibility to bacterial growth, decreases their water solubility, and increases their flexibility.

Depending on the procedure chosen, vegetable tanning might take anywhere from 2 days to 30 days or more. It is often done out in big pits or revolving drums that assist agitate the leather within the tannin mixture. Throughout the process, the hides are exposed to increasingly intense quantities of tannins. The following barks serve to extract tannins in this process:

Chestnut
Hemlock
Mangrove
Oak
Redoul
Wattle
Mimosa

The tanning process converts hides into finished leathers, which can then be used in leather items. Vegetable tanning provides a variety of colors, including yellows, browns, and even reds. Because it is a more natural process, the outcomes can be distinct and frequently quite appealing. While vegetable tanning produces softer leather than raw hides, it is still rather tough and stiff.

2. History of Vegetable Tanned Leather

Vegetable-tanned leather. Leather has been used for thousands of years as both a protective and functional material. Humans have frequently used as many animal parts as possible for survival and to create tools for easier and better living. Leather boots, for example, made for easier walking and exploration.

Leather's applications grew in tandem with human evolution and society. Its applications would expand to include leather armor, boots, satchels, tents, writing surfaces, harnesses, and jewelry. In some societies, leather came to be a mark of high status. Leathercraft was growing to prioritize both utility and aesthetics.

The Greeks are thought to have built the vegetable tanning method around 800 BC. It is possible that it began in Egypt and was perfected throughout time. Rome would eventually follow similar methods.

Vegetable tanning was the primary method of leather manufacture until around 1858. That year, chromium tanning was introduced, allowing leather to be manufactured faster, thinner, and softer. All of these traits benefited the leather business.

This would mark the beginning of a significant shift in leather tanning techniques. Chrome tanned leather would gain popularity over time, eventually surpassing vegetable tanned leathers in terms of overall production volume. As of the early 2000s, only approximately 10% of tanned leather was vegetable tanned.

3. How is Vegetable Tanned Leather Made?

While each tannery may tweak the process slightly, the fundamentals remain consistent. Typically, the animal hide is salted to preserve its natural qualities and fats. Afterward, the hair is removed, and the hide is prepped for a tanning bath. This bath, rich in organic materials like tree bark loaded with tannins, is the key ingredient.

Once the hide is thoroughly cleaned, it is submerged in the bath. The tannins in the bath replace the water in the hide, binding the collagen fibers together. Interestingly, the specific tannins used at different tanneries create a unique "fingerprint" on the leather. Research from the University of Cambridge and the University of the Free State, led by Romer, Underwood, and Senekal, has even explored these unique tannin patterns in vegetable tanned leather.

Depending on the desired outcome, the hide can remain in the bath for anywhere from a month to a year. After it’s been fully soaked and preserved, it is officially considered leather. The next step is to hang the leather to dry, finalizing the process.

3.1 Production Statistics of Vegetable Tanned Leather

Annual production volume: 180,000,000 square feet
Key producing countries: Italy, India, Brazil, and Japan
Leading exporters: Italy, India, Brazil
Leading importers: India, U.S., and China

3.2 Cost of Vegetable Tanned Leather

Per square foot: $4–$20 depending on the source and animal hide used
Half Hide: $90–$110
Full Hide: $150–$200

3.3 When to Use Veg Tan Leather for Leathercraft

Ideal for tooling and carving
Perfect for creating heirloom-quality, durable pieces
When you plan to dye or paint the leather yourself

3.4 Tips for Leather Crafting with Veg Tan Leather

Always ensure your blade is sharp for cutting or skiving.
Wet the leather before molding or shaping it to avoid tearing.
Check the backside of the hide when purchasing; an excessively rough texture can make skiving and cutting difficult—often a sign of poor tanning quality.

4. In-depth Characteristics of Vegetable Tan Leather

Vegetable tanned leather carries a distinct charm, marked by its natural look, durability, and ability to develop a beautiful patina over time. Let’s dive into the unique characteristics that make this leather a timeless favorite.

4.1 Natural or Synthetic

Vegetable tan leather is natural, not synthetic. Because the tanning process includes water and tannin-rich organic debris, it is regarded as a far more natural method of tanning leather.

4.2 Surface Texture

Overall, vegetable-tanned leather is known for its smoothness. Many people choose vegetable tanned leather because of its smooth and natural surface, including imperfections.

4.3 Available Thickness

Vegetable tan leather is available in a range of thicknesses. Because the thickness of a hide can vary slightly, it is frequently sold in a range, including:

1-2 oz
2-3 oz
4-6 oz

This spans from 1oz to 6oz, with 6oz leather frequently used for saddle construction and 1oz often used for products such as:

Bag linings
Shoes
Boots
Bags

4.4 Largest Workable Size

Tanneries often make vegetable tan leather from various animals, with cows and horses being the most common. They typically sell horsehide by the side (half a hide), which can measure around 18 square feet. In contrast, they offer cowhide as a full hide, available in sizes up to 60 square feet.

4.5 Flexibility

One of the most distinguishing features of vegetable-tanned leather is its lack of flexibility and ability to maintain a molded shape. It is frequently described as a stiff and inflexible leather. This largely depends on the weight of the leather—1-3 ounce leather can be relatively soft and supple, whereas 16 oz leather is extremely rigid.

However, its rigidity is why it is highly valued. Leather craftsmen can soak the hides in water and wet mold them into the required shape. When dry, the leather hardens and retains its shape for an infinite period.

4.6 Softness

Veg tan leather is frequently thought to have a rough texture. Many products, including boots, jackets, wallets, and accessories, start rigid and smooth. They break in over time and use, becoming softer and more supple, depending on the hide. Vegetable tanned sheepskin will be slightly softer than cowhide, whereas horsehide will be the stiffest.

4.7 Sewability

Sewing veg tan leather may appear to be a difficult task, but it is actually quite simple. Thinner and lighter-weight leather is considerably easier to sew, whether by hand with a punch or on a medium-weight sewing machine.

Thicker leather with a strong fiber structure, such as the oak-tanned leather used for shoe soles, is extremely tough and difficult to stitch. This requires an incredibly strong sewing machine or the use of an awl.

4.8 Durability

One of the best things about vegetable tanned leather is its endurance. The tanning method goes back thousands of years and was not replaced until the 1800s. Today, craftsmen choose veg tan leather due to its resilience. With careful maintenance, it can last for decades. One of the most common applications for vegetable tan leather is the soles of shoes and boots. They can withstand damage from asphalt and last for years.

The main advantage of vegetable tanned leather is that it can last a lifetime and is often used to create heirloom-quality products.

4.9 Ease of Maintenance

Vegetable-tanned leather lasts a long time and is very sturdy. While the finish can be scratch and is prone to abrasion, you can clean it with mild cleansers like saddle soap. You can also use simple leather conditioners to maintain and extend its life.

Water is the most dangerous enemy of vegetable tanned leather because it stiffens and darkens it. When working with veg tanned leather, it is common practice to use a sealer to prevent water from permeating the leather.

4.10 Lifespan with Daily Use

The other benefit of vegetable tanned leather is that it may last a lifetime and is usually used to create heirloom quality products. Even with carelessness, vegetable-tanned leather can last 20-25 years. Conditioning the leather is essential for keeping it in good condition for a long time.

4.11 Available Colors

You can find veg tan leather in both dyed and natural colors. People commonly obtain it in its natural state, with white or tan flesh. This natural hue can be worn as is, and it absorbs oil from use, which deepens the leather and creates its distinctive patina.

Similarly, vegetable tanned leather can be ordered pre-dyed. These hues are often earth tones, but more options are available. When it comes to pre-dyed leathers, chrome dyed leather typically has more alternatives than vegetable tanned leather. Common vegetable-tanned leather colors include:

Olive
Black
Brown
Red
Green

Available Colors of Vegetable Tan Leather

4.12 Waterproofness

Veg tan leather is long-lasting, however it has a capacity to absorb water. This is especially important when a craftsman is tooling the leather because he will moisten it to soften it and make it simpler to tool.

Leather is often dyed and sealed to increase its water resistance. Resolene is a common sealant that keeps water out of the leather.

Motorcycle jacket and boot makers prefer veg tan horsehide because its dense fiber structure makes it more water-resistant than other leathers.

4.13 Cost

The cost of vegetable-tanned leather varies substantially. The price reflects the time-consuming process of tanning the leather, which can take months. The tannery is the most significant contributor to costs. Leather tanned in Brazil or India will be significantly less expensive than vegetable-tanned leather from Japan, the United States, or Italy. As a result, the price per square foot ranges between $4 and $20.

4.14 Ease of Crafting

Vegetable-tanned leather is a good choice for craftsmen. Crafters use leather to manufacture a variety of items, including belts, bags, and wallets, which appeal to both beginners and advanced artisans. The possibilities are unlimited because you can tool it, sew it easily, and dye it in any color you choose.

4.15 Rarity (Common or Exotic)

Vegetable tanned leather is extremely common. Leather artisans favor it, and you can find it in almost every leather store, even though it makes up only about 10% of total leather production. Handcrafted leather goods are more likely to use vegetable tanned leather than mass-produced products.

5. What is Vegetable Tanned Leather Used For?

Vegetable tanned leather can be applied in a wide range of leatherworking and crafting projects. The versatility of this leather depends largely on its weight (you can refer to my leather weights guide here for more details), making it suitable for various leather goods.

Veg tan leather can also be created into the typical types of leather such as full grain, top grain, genuine, split grain, and bonded leather.

It excels in various leather working techniques, including sewing, stamping, embossing, tooling, carving, molding, cutting, and riveting. Its flexibility makes it a favored choice for a variety of projects. Here are some recommended uses based on leather weight:

5.1 Leather Weight and Common Uses

For lighter leather (1–3 oz), it’s ideal for items like thin wallets, watch bands, molding, linings, and small accessories like bookmarks or pouches. As the weight increases (3–5 oz), it’s perfect for thicker wallets, small purses, notebook covers, and light upholstery for furniture.

When you move into medium weights (5–7 oz), the leather is great for boots, knife sheaths, bags, aprons, and belts. This weight range also works well for more durable items like wrestling masks and thin armor.

Crafters commonly use heavier leather (7–10 oz) for larger goods like slings, thicker handbags, duffels, and holsters. They also craft it into pet collars, sword scabbards, and thicker armor.

At the heaviest weights (10 oz and above), the leather is ideal for heavy-duty items such as saddles, shoe soles, machine belting, and thick belts and straps. Armor and protective gear also benefit from this weight, offering maximum durability.

6. Pros and Cons of Vegetable Tanned Leather

6.1 Pros of Vegetable Tanning

Vegetable tanning offers several key benefits:

It uses only natural substances throughout the tanning process.
Each leather hide is unique, with its own characteristics, ensuring no two pieces are the same.
Ideal for individuals with allergies, as it doesn’t use harsh chemicals.
The tanning process has an almost negligible environmental impact.
Vegetable tanned leather has a distinctive, unmistakable smell.
It’s highly customizable with various techniques such as engraving, printing, and coloring.
This leather can achieve significant thickness, up to 6 millimeters, which is rare with other tanning methods.
It provides superior durability—improving with time instead of aging poorly.
The process is eco-friendly, making it a sustainable choice.
It’s a hallmark of Italian craftsmanship, symbolizing excellence in “Made In Italy.”
While it has a higher selling price, the perceive value by customers is equally elevate.

6.2 Cons of Vegetable Tanning

However, vegetable tanning does come with a few drawbacks:

The tanning process is lengthy and complex.
The raw materials used in production are more expensive.
This makes the overall process costlier.
Standardization is difficult due to the natural variation in the hides.
Veg tan leather offers a more limited color range compared to other tanning methods.
People may see natural marks and differences between hides as defects, but these actually highlight the leather's authenticity and value.

7. Vegetable Tanned Leather Care & Maintenance

Proper care is essential for all leather goods, especially natural vegetable tanned leather. Since it consists of natural fibers, regular cleaning and conditioning with oils will help maintain its strength and appearance.

Always test any cleaning product on a small, inconspicuous area before full application. Vegetable tanned leather is sensitive, and even large water droplets can cause darkening.

7.1 How to Clean Vegetable Tanned Leather?

To clean veg tanned leather, use a moist, lint-free cloth to gently wipe the surface. Be cautious with moisture to avoid staining. For deeper dirt or difficult stains, saddle soap or a gentle leather cleaner like Lexol works well.

7.2 How to Condition Vegetable Tanned Leather?

Vegetable tanned leather tends to dry out more quickly, so frequent conditioning is crucial. Apply wax, oil, or cream to the leather and let it absorb. This keeps the leather supple, flexible, and resistant to scratches.

You should apply conditioner in small circular motions and then wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. You can apply a protective finish afterward for added water resistance, but it may alter the leather's natural appearance.

7.3 How to Waterproof Vegetable Tanned Leather?

Apply a wax protectant after cleaning and conditioning to protect the leather in wet conditions. Buff the wax afterward to create a smooth, water-repellent surface. For more durable protection, you can use acrylic coatings like resolene, though they may limit the leather's breathability and future care.

7.4 How to Fix Scratches on Vegetable Tanned Leather?

Small scratches can often be buffed out with your fingers. For deeper scratches, applying leather conditioner can help smooth them out. For severe scratches, a leather filler kit may be necessary to fill the crack, followed by conditioning.

7.5 How to Fix Tears in Vegetable Tanned Leather?

You can often repair tears by sewing, although the repair may not look as smooth as the original surface. Use leather glue for small tears, especially if it matches the color. If necessary, you can apply acrylic paint over the glue for a more seamless look.

7.6 How to Store Vegetable Tanned Leather?

Store vegetable tanned leather in a cool, dry, and dust-free location. It’s important to allow airflow so the fibers can breathe. Avoid sealed environments that could cause humidity and mold, or overly dry environments that could lead to cracking.

A breathable storage bag can also help protect the leather from dust and environmental damage. Vegetable tanned leather is both versatile and stylish, making it a top choice for many projects.

8. Closing Thoughts

Vegetable tanned leather is more than just a material—it’s a testament to craftsmanship, tradition, and sustainability. With its natural tanning process, rich patina, and exceptional durability, it’s easy to see why this leather has been favored for centuries. Whether you're crafting an heirloom piece or investing in a long-lasting product, vegetable tanned leather offers unmatched quality and a unique character that only improves with time.

By understanding its origins, the process behind its creation, and the expert care it requires, you can ensure your leather goods will stand the test of time—aging gracefully and telling a story of their own. So, whether you're looking to add a new leather item to your collection or embark on a crafting project, vegetable tanned leather should be at the top of your list.

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