What is Horween Leather & Why Does It Stands Out in Quality and Craftsmanship?

Every single NFL football you’ve seen thrown on game day is made from Horween leather. That’s just one testament to the exceptional quality this Chicago-based tannery has delivered for over a century. Known for its iconic Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan leathers, Horween stands out for its unmatched craftsmanship, durability, and ability to age beautifully. Whether you're a leather lover or just curious about what makes this material so special, you'll soon discover why Horween continues to be a favorite across industries, from fashion to sports.

1. What Is Horween Leather?

"Horween leather" is the term used to describe all of the different varieties of leather produced at the Horween tannery. The Horween Leather Company is a tannery in Chicago, Illinois, producing high-quality leather.

The company creates some of the finest tanned leather and shell cordovan combinations. Horween's reputation stems from its long history of producing American-made leather, including collaborating with Wilson to supply NFL footballs.

2. The History of Horween Leather

This leather is sourced from the Horween Leather Company in Chicago, Illinois. Isadore Horween created the company in 1905, making it one of America's oldest tanneries. By 1911, he had produced aniline chromexcel leather, which remains one of their most popular leathers today. During World War II, the leather was used to make boots because of its great water resistance. 

Horween's expansion continued after Isadore's son, Arnold Horween, took over the business in 1949. With a long football background between him and his brother Ralph Horween, he went on to produce leather for use in the National Football League. 

Today, Horween Leather Company is one of the few remaining American tanneries, distinguished by its rich heritage and high-quality leather. Horween has become a household name among craftspeople and leather enthusiasts. 

3. Clearing Up Myths & Misconceptions About Horween Leather

While Horween's leather might be an excellent choice for a variety of projects, it is not always the best. Horween's leathers serve as a somewhat softer combination of tanned leather, making them an excellent choice for individuals seeking the benefits of both tanning procedures. However, this frequently places the leather in an inconvenient position, where a different leather might be more suited to the project. 

Belts, saddles, and sheaths are frequently preferable to tougher leather that does not expand over time. Similarly, bags and clothes benefit from more soft, pliable leather. Horween offers high-quality leather for a general audience, but other tanneries that specialize in specific leather types often outperform it.

4. How Is Horween Leather Made?

Horween leathers are made by selecting high-quality skins collected as a byproduct from the meat industry. The hides will have been salted for preservation before arriving at the tannery, where they will be cleaned of salt, dust, and other debris. Once the leather has been cleaned, it is ready for processing.

The leathers are pickled for 24 hours to aid the chrome tannage clinging to the leather, after which they are classified by tanning type. Their leathers are placed in drums filled with unique tanning chemicals.

Once the leather has dried, color, oils, and waxes can be applied. Hot stuffing serves to apply oils and waxes to the leather, allowing them to enter thoroughly. Once the leather has dried, it is hand-finished before being shipped.

5. The Characteristics of Horween Leather

5.1 Material

The majority of hides received by the Horween tannery are from cows, with horse hides accounting for only approximately 10%. Horween's hides are all sourced from animals cut down for their meat rather than their hide. Furthermore, the company carefully inspects its hides before selecting them, providing the best possible outcome by beginning with high-quality resources. 

5.2 Cost

Their shell cordovan is at an entirely different price point when compared to their cowhide leathers. Shell cordovan is made from horse rump, a more scarce material. The leather supply is often low because of this, combined with Horween’s six-month tanning methods. As a result, the leather cost around $135 per square foot — a hefty investment.

5.3 Appearance

While the appearance of Horween leathers varies by type, a few traits remain consistent across the line. Horween's leathers are often full grain, which means they will have surfaces with beauty markings like range marks or bug bites.

Another frequent feature of leather is its waxy or greasy surface. This frequently results in a pull-up effect, which lends a wide range of depth to the colors of the leather. 

5.4 Flexibility

Horween leathers offer more flexibility than other leathers of the same tannage. They feel semi-rigid, with enough hardness for wallets and soft sheaths. Craftsmen also use Horween leathers to make boots, showcasing their flexibility. The leather works well for shoes while still being mixture-tanned rather than chromium-tanned.

5.5 Durability

Many of Horween's leathers include processes for applying waxes and oil to the leather in addition to the already tough combination tan. This makes many of Horween's leathers extremely durable, lasting decades, if not a lifetime. With leathers having a pull-up action and the capacity to patina, wear simply adds character by darkening and exposing the rich colors, revealing the oils and waxes. 

5.6 Water resistance

While no leather is totally waterproof, Horween leather is extremely water resistant. The combination of tanning protects the leather against saturation, causing water to bead off. In addition, several of Horween's leathers have waxes and oils hidden beneath the surface. 

This also helps to repel liquids and keep water from entering deep into the leather. However, water can still damage the leather if it becomes entirely saturated, so any spills should be wiped up as soon as possible. 

6. Different Types of Horween Leather

6.1 Chromexcel

Chromexcel, a mixture of tanned leather, is maybe Horween's most popular product. This tanning procedure combines chromium and vegetable tanning techniques to produce a hybrid that benefits from both types of leather. It is packed with waxes and oils to produce a strong pull-up. Chromexcel leather will tarnish over time and is burnishable due to the combination tanning. 

6.2 Shell Cordovan

Shell cordovan is the result of a fibrous horse rump, which is extremely resilient and does not wrinkle readily. Horween's shell is well-known for its flawless surface and vivid color. Their production procedure lasts at least six months. Tanning, dyeing, and finishing the leather. Horween's shell is manually dyed, resulting in a lovely aniline finish. 

6.3 Essex

Horween features Essex leather in its vegetable-tanned products. During production, they reuse half of the tanning liquids from Shell Cordovan. They continue tanning the leather while adding oils, fats, and grease to enhance its softness and durability.

This second step of the procedure strengthens and softens the leather. When completed, Horween's Essex leather is softer and more subtle than most vegetable-tanned leathers on the market. 

6.4 Latigo

A combination of leather with a deep vegetable re-tan is Horween's Latigo leather. They can re-tan their Latigo leather to enhance its durability and vegetable-tanned qualities like hardness, patina, and burnishability. Horween's latigo leather is also hot and full of waxes to add a protective layer, making it excellent for straps, belts, and stiff leather bags. 

6.5 Dublin

The Dublin leather from Horween is a more rustic variation of their Essex leather. Using the same vegetable tanning recipe as their shell cordovan, with extra fats, oils, and grease. Dublin varies from Essex in its finishing. They add natural waxes to the completed Dublin leather and then iron it to achieve a flawless surface.

7. Is Horween Leather Better Than Other Types of Leather?

Horween produces high-quality leather that is loved by many and used by numerous fashion brands. While its reputation stands out, it's not necessarily better than other types of leather—it’s simply different. These leather serves a specific niche as a soft, hybrid leather, making it versatile for various projects.

Other types of leather, such as full-grain, top-grain, and corrected-grain leathers, each have their own advantages. Full-grain leather, for example, is known for its toughness and natural look, while top-grain leather offers a smoother, more refined surface. Corrected-grain leather undergoes extra processing to remove imperfections, making it more affordable and accessible.

Horween leather, with its attractive appearance, durability, and ease of maintenance, is a popular choice for the general market. However, leather enthusiasts may favor other types based on specific qualities they prioritize, such as the raw feel of full-grain or the polished look of top-grain.

In Bailey’s Industrial Oil and Fat Products, Sixth Edition, authors Paul Kronick and Y.K. Kamath highlight that the fats and oils added during the tanning process play a crucial role in softening leather. Their research shows that these ingredients help break down the fibers, giving the leather more flexibility.

8. Popular Horween Leather Products

Throughout its long history, Horween Leather Company has become renowned for producing high-quality, durable, and water-resistant leathers. Their craftsmanship has made this leather the material of choice for some of the most iconic products in various industries. Here are some popular Horween leather goods:

8.1 NFL Footballs

Horween leather is used exclusively to make the official footballs for the National Football League (NFL). Known for its grip and durability, this leather helps create the perfect football for professional athletes, ensuring optimal performance in all weather conditions.

8.2 NBA Basketballs

Similarly, Horween leather has been the material of choice for official NBA basketballs. The leather provides excellent control and feel, enhancing gameplay at the highest level of competition.

8.3 Boots

Many premium boot brands use Horween leather, especially Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan, for their footwear. Companies like Red Wing, Alden, and Wolverine rely on Horween leather’s strength and ability to develop a rich patina over time, making these boots both stylish and long-lasting.

8.4 Leather Jackets

Horween Chromexcel leather is also used in the creation of premium leather jackets, known for their soft feel, durability, and ability to age beautifully. Brands that focus on crafting high-end leather jackets often turn to Horween for its superior quality, ensuring jackets that not only look great but stand the test of time.

8.5 Wallets

Craftsmen highly regard leather wallets made from Horween’s Shell Cordovan and Chromexcel leather for their smooth finish and exceptional durability. Brands like Ashland Leather and Tanner Goods offer luxury wallets that age beautifully, making them a favorite among leather enthusiasts.

8.6 Belts

Craftsmen also use Horween leather to make high-quality belts. Chromexcel and Dublin leather belts are praise for their durability, elegance, and ability to endure daily wear while developing a distinctive character over time.

These popular goods highlight the versatility and enduring appeal of Horween leather, making it a trusted choice for products that demand both performance and style.

9. Pros and Cons of Horween Leather

9.1 Pros of Horween Leather

Many of Horween's leathers are quite popular and appear in a variety of items. Their leathers are appealing to more than just novices and leather enthusiasts, with numerous fashion and sports brands featuring them. 

• Wear and water-resistant 
• Patina formation is possible.
• More flexible than other vegetable-tanned leathers.
• Made from high-quality hides.
• Versatile project use. 

9.2 Cons of Horween Leather

Although many consider Horween's leathers among the best available, there are a few things to keep in mind.

• Higher price per hide
• Scratches and marks readily.
• High demand often leads to out-of-stock situations, which can lead to extended wait times.

10. My Personal Research on Horween Leather

One of Horween's standout leathers is Chromexcel, known for its combination-tanned hide and impressive pull-up effect. To explore why it’s so popular, I worked with burgundy Chromexcel, and while its overall color was darker than expected, the pull-up effect was striking. Bending the leather revealed rich red undertones, creating a dynamic look. It felt smooth with a slight oily texture, not greasy, but enough to leave a subtle residue. I was also surprised by its flexibility, especially in the thicker piece I ordered, which was more spongy and pliable than dense.

Cutting the leather was easy and satisfying, though I noticed that using an acrylic ruler caused some slipping, leaving marks on the surface. Thankfully, these marks were easy to rub out. The blade sliced through the leather smoothly without stretching it, making precise, accurate cuts. Punching holes for stitching was a breeze as the leather stretched slightly, allowing the chisels to be removed easily. Pre-planning punch spots was convenient, as the leather held light impressions well, allowing adjustments as needed.

Sewing Chromexcel was an enjoyable process. The needles passed through effortlessly, and there was no debris buildup during stitching. Tension wasn’t a problem, although pulling the thread too tightly could cause the leather to compress slightly. Finishing the sewing by hammering the thread closed the holes nicely, and using a cotton cloth effectively removed any marks left from stitching. Overall, crafting with Horween Chromexcel was smooth and rewarding.

11. How To Maintain Horween Leather?

Maintaining several of Horween's leathers is surprisingly simple. The waxes, oils, and fats utilized throughout the tanning process serve to keep the leather healthy. However, the leather will require frequent repair over time, as outlined below.

1. Use a horsehair brush to get as much dirt and debris off the item as possible. 
2. If necessary, use a clean rag to apply tested leather soap to the entire area. Allow the leather to dry completely before proceeding.
3. While a leather conditioner can be used without a leather soap, it is recommended to apply a conditioner after using a leather soap to avoid dryness. To apply, rub a clean cloth with a tested leather conditioner in circular motions on the leather. Wipe away any excess and allow it to thoroughly dry.
4. While not required, once the leather has dried from the conditioner, it can be polished to a shine. A soft fabric is ideal for buffing and polishing the leather's surface.

12. Closing Thoughts

After working with Horween leather, it’s clear why it’s so popular. The quality shines through in every aspect, from the unique pull-up effect of Chromexcel to the smooth durability of Shell Cordovan. It’s easy to cut, flexible, and ages beautifully, making it a joy to work with.

Horween’s long-standing reputation is well-deserved. While it may not suit every project, its versatility and craftsmanship make it a reliable choice for high-quality goods like boots, wallets, and jackets.

Overall, This leather is an impressive material that offers both durability and beauty, making it a rewarding option for any leather project.

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