October 14, 2024 | Learn Everything Leather

What is Vegan Leather? - How It’s Made, and Why It Matters

When you hear “vegan leather,” you might picture a leather jacket with a serious plant-based twist or a sleek handbag that's kind to animals. But what is vegan leather really? Is it just a fancy way of saying “fake leather,” or is there more to the story?

Vegan leather is more than just an alternative to traditional leather—it’s a movement toward something bigger, something better for the planet, animals, and even us humans. Whether you’re thinking about buying a vegan leather item or just curious about how it’s made, you’re in the right place! Let’s dive into the world of vegan leather, explore its origins, and see why it’s catching on as the go-to material for people who care about style and sustainability.

And, yes, along the way, we’ll clear up some common myths, answer questions, and even see how vegan leather stacks up against the real deal. So, pull up a chair (or put on your vegan leather sneakers) and let’s explore this stylish, earth-friendly material that’s taking the world by storm!

1. What Is Vegan Leather?

Vegan leather, (sometimes called faux leather or synthetic leather) refers to any leather alternative that skips animal products altogether. Rather than relying on animal hides, vegan leather uses different base materials mixed with plastic and other additives to give it similar qualities, like:

UV protection
Flame resistance
Pleasant fragrance
Stabilizing agents

Vegan leathers are usually made from either plastic or plant-based materials and have become popular in the fashion and furniture industries—especially for items like clothing and chairs. Each type of vegan leather has its own mix of these additives, along with unique backing and finishing techniques. To get that leather-like appearance, the vegan leather goes through a bonding process where it’s hot-pressed with a textured finish, making it look and feel much like the real thing.

2. The History of Vegan Leather

Vegan leather first came about in Germany during the 19th century, when the country was at war and needed materials for its military. This is where Presstoff entered the scene—a treated paper pulp layered to create a leather-like material. However, Presstoff had some serious durability issues, so it was eventually replaced by leather alternatives centered around plastic.

As plastics have become a growing environmental concern, vegan leather manufacturers have been on the lookout for greener options. Many companies are now working to replace plastic in their vegan leather products with fibers from plants, fruits, and other biodegradable materials, aiming for options that are friendlier to the planet.

3. Clearing Up Myths & Misconceptions

One big misconception about vegan leather is that all types are the same. This couldn’t be further from the truth! Vegan leathers actually vary a lot—each type has unique characteristics, different finishing processes, and a range of plastic content.

For example, well-known types like PU (polyurethane) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride) vegan leather rely heavily on plastic for durability. They often feel pretty artificial, which is what most people think of when they hear “vegan leather.” However, newer types of vegan leather are moving away from this approach, cutting down on plastic and instead using natural fibers from fruits, plants, and even mushrooms.

While these plant-based vegan leathers might not always match the durability of their plastic-heavy counterparts, they come closer to the feel of real animal leather and offer a more premium look and feel in a space that often feels a bit synthetic.

4. What is Vegan Leather Made Of?

Vegan leather aims to avoid using animal hides during manufacturing. Instead, companies use a variety of plastics, ground fibers, and other harvested materials as the base. These materials are often combined with plastic or resin to increase durability.

Some types of leather require a backing for stability, which can include different fabrics bonded to the leather mix through a heat press. Vegan leathers vary in both appearance and texture, and each type brings unique features to the table.

The two most common types are PU leather and PVC leather, but there are other exciting options made from natural sources like cork, cactus, and even fruits such as pineapple leaves.

4.1 Synthetic Vegan Leather

1. PU Leather (or pleather)

PU leather (polyurethane) has been a staple in vegan leather for decades. It’s made from a thermoplastic polymer, then textured and heat-pressed onto a backing, which can be anything from fabric to paper-like materials.

While PU leather is highly wear-resistant and water-resistant, it relies heavily on plastics, which can make it feel artificial and limit its sustainability. It's also non-biodegradable, so for environmentally friendly options, real leather can sometimes be more sustainable than this synthetic alternative.

2. PVC Leather

Similar to PU leather, PVC leather is made with a plastic mixture that’s bonded to a backing material and then textured to resemble leather. The key difference is in the finishing process, as PVC leather includes additional layers for added protection, which makes it more rigid and prone to cracking.

3. Microfiber Leather

Microfiber leather is made from ultra-fine fibers, typically polyester and polyurethane. These fibers create a material that looks and feels much like genuine leather. It’s known for its soft texture and durability, although it doesn’t match the lifespan of real leather.

4.2 Plant-Based Vegan Leather

1. Cactus

Cactus leather is made from the leaves of the cactus plant. Once harvested, the leaves can regrow, making this a more sustainable option. The leaves are dried to remove moisture, then ground into fibers to form the base material for the leather. A stabilizer and dye are added, and a resin coating finishes the leather. Although it’s not as durable as synthetic leather, cactus leather offers flexibility and a more natural feel.

2. Kombucha

Crafting kombucha leather starts with tea and a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast. As the bacteria grow, they form a pellicle or skin, which serves as a leather alternative. Combining these layers adds durability and thickness. Although kombucha leather has a shorter lifespan, it can bond to itself, so you can easily patch holes by applying a new pellicle sheet.

3. Pineapple

Also known as Piñatex, pineapple leather is made from pineapple leaves. The leaves are stripped, washed, and dried before being woven into a felt-like material. This base is then dyed and coated with a protective resin. While affordable, pineapple leather is prone to damage, limiting its lifespan. Nonetheless, it makes a positive environmental impact by reducing pineapple waste by 30%.

4. Mushroom

Mushroom leather is derived from mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms, which is grown on organic waste. This method offers great tensile strength and a soft texture, plus it’s more water-resistant than other vegan leathers. While mushroom leather includes some plastic to enhance durability, it uses less than other alternatives, making it a relatively eco-friendly option.

5. Apple

Made from the pomace and skin left over from juice production, apple leather combines this waste with polyurethane and bonds it to fabric. This mixture creates a vegan leather that is durable, water-resistant, and competitively priced. However, it can feel more synthetic than other vegan leathers due to its high plastic content.

6. Mango

Similar to apple leather, mango leather starts with pulp that’s combined with various additives, then left to dry. After dehydration, sheets of mango leather are coated for protection. While flexible, mango leather lacks durability and is more costly due to limited production.

5. How is Vegan Leather Made?

Vegan leather is crafted through various processes designed to replicate the appearance and feel of traditional animal leather.

The exact methods can vary depending on the type of vegan leather, but here’s a general overview of the manufacturing process:

5.1 Base Material Selection

The process begins with selecting a suitable base material. Common choices include synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, or cotton. Some vegan leathers also start with powdered leaves, fruits, or other plant-based substances, which are then mixed with a stabilizer to help bond the material.

This mixture often includes additives for flame retardancy and UV protection to improve durability and longevity.

Base Material Selection for vegan Leather

5.2 Coating or Laminating

After preparing the base material, it is typically coated or laminated with a layer of polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

In some cases, dye and a protective mixture are also added to this coating. The combined mixture is then poured onto fabrics or textured paper, which are bonded to the backing using heat and pressure, forming sheets of vegan leather. This coating gives the material its leather-like appearance, and additional treatments may enhance its water resistance, durability, and other qualities.

5.3 Alternative Methods

In addition to traditional coating techniques, innovative approaches are being explored. For example, some companies are experimenting with plant-based materials such as pineapple leaves (Piñatex), mushrooms (mycelium leather), and cork bark (cork leather) to create more sustainable, eco-friendly leather alternatives.

Alternative Methods of Making Vegan Leather

5.4 Embossing and Texturing

To further mimic the look and feel of genuine leather, the coated material may undergo embossing and texturing. This process involves pressing patterns or textures onto the surface, creating a realistic leather-like appearance.

The embossing can range from simple grain patterns to intricate designs, depending on the desired aesthetic.

Embossing and Texturing of Genuine Leather

6. What’s the Difference Between Vegan Leather vs. Real Leather?

It might not come as a surprise that we’re big fans of real leather. Yes, real leather results in a high-quality final product, but there are many features that make it hard to ignore.

Real leather is a unique material—it doesn’t age the way most other fabrics do. In fact, well-cared-for real leather products can last for decades. Our real leather jackets are crafted to last for years, offering reassurance that you’ll stay protected while looking stylish. Most real leather items like, jackets, coats, and accessories even improve with age, becoming more comfortable and attractive over time—something that vegan and faux leathers can’t quite replicate. The strength and durability of real leather make it highly desirable for those seeking quality items.

Real leather has historically been used for armor and boots, which speaks to its durability. Meanwhile, vegan leather, while initially durable and scratch-resistant, has a much shorter lifespan, typically lasting around five years. Over time, vegan leather will begin to peel, often ruining the entire piece before reaching its expected lifespan.

6.1 Durability

While vegan leather initially seems strong and water-resistant, it lacks the longevity of real leather. While real leather may show signs of wear, it can last for decades. Vegan leather, on the other hand, eventually peels due to its multi-layered construction.

6.2 Price

Vegan leather can be affordable, costing as little as $1 per square foot, especially when bought in bulk. However, certain plant-based vegan leathers made from fruits, mushrooms, or plants are on the higher end, sometimes reaching $25 per square foot. These prices are expected to decrease as production scales up.

6.3 Flexibility

The flexibility of vegan leather depends on the type. PVC vegan leather, for instance, has a thick protective coating that can make it prone to cracking. However, certain vegan leathers that limit plastic use can be more supple. For a more flexible option, it’s best to avoid types with heavy plastics and opt for those with fabric backing.

6.4 Sustainability

One of the goals of vegan leather manufacturers is to produce a more sustainable product. Many begin with renewable resources like leaves, fruits, and mushroom fibers, which can be produced more quickly and environmentally-friendly than animal leather. However, vegan leather’s reliance on plastics prevents it from being fully biodegradable. Future innovations may allow manufacturers to eliminate plastics entirely, creating the potential for a fully sustainable product.

6.5 Water Resistance

Vegan leather isn’t completely waterproof but provides excellent water resistance. Unlike animal leather, it’s non-porous, making it hard for liquids to penetrate. However, if liquids are left to sit, they can damage the surface and cause cracking or peeling. Cleaning spills promptly is essential to maintain the material’s quality.

6.6 Quality

Just like traditional leather, vegan leather quality can vary. Vegan leathers that rely heavily on plastics may be stiffer, whereas those made with leaves or natural materials tend to be more flexible. Additionally, backing materials impact quality. Some vegan leathers use paper-like backings, which are prone to damage and result in a lower quality product.

7. Which Leather Should Be Used Instead of Vegan Leather?

If you’re considering alternatives to vegan leather, the decision largely depends on your values, priorities, and intended use. While vegan leather has its appeal for those seeking animal-free options, there are other leather types that offer durability, environmental sustainability, or a luxurious feel. Here are a few alternatives to consider:

7.1 Full-Grain Leather

Full-grain leather is the highest quality leather, made from the top layer of the hide with natural grain intact. It’s incredibly durable, ages beautifully, and can last for decades. Ideal for those seeking a long-term investment, it’s commonly used in premium jackets, bags, and shoes.

7.2 Vegetable-Tanned Leather

Vegetable-tanned leather is processed using plant-based tannins, which make it more eco-friendly. This leather develops a rich patina over time and offers a warm, natural look. Though it requires more care, it’s a sustainable choice for wallets, belts, and other everyday items.

7.3 Recycled Leather

Recycled leather, sometimes called “bonded leather,” is made from scraps of leather that are ground down and reconstituted with adhesives. It’s more affordable and helps reduce leather waste, making it an eco-conscious choice. While it lacks the durability of full-grain leather, it’s perfect for light-use items.

7.4 Sheepskin Leather

Sheepskin leather is softer and lighter than cowhide, offering a more comfortable fit. It’s known for its natural insulation, making it ideal for colder weather. While it’s less durable, sheepskin provides a luxurious feel and is often used in shearling and sheepskin jackets and gloves.

7.5 Cowhide Leather

Known for its strength and versatility, cowhide leather is a popular choice for biker jackets and accessories. It’s more resistant to wear and tear than other leathers and can withstand frequent use. Cowhide has a natural, rugged texture that adds character over time.

7.6 Suede Leather

Suede leather is made from the underside of animal hides, giving it a soft, velvety texture. While not as durable as full-grain leather, it’s highly flexible and breathable. Suede is frequently used for stylish shoes, suede leather jackets, and accessories, though it requires regular maintenance to stay in top condition.

Each option has its own strengths, so consider what matters most—durability, sustainability, or animal-friendliness—when choosing the best fit for your needs.

8. Pros and Cons of Vegan leather

8.1 Pros of Vegan Leather

Over the years, vegan leather has become more common in everyday items. This growth is largely due to its competitive pricing, though recent innovations have expanded its potential. Additional benefits of vegan leather include:

Lower cost than genuine leather
No harm to animals in its production
Wide variety of colors with different saturation levels
Potentially larger pieces than standard hides

8.2 Cons of Vegan Leather

While vegan leather aims to offer an animal-free alternative, it comes with certain drawbacks. Vegan leather doesn’t match the durability and longevity of genuine leather. Its plastic coating adds some durability but can become a downside as it peels over time. Other disadvantages of vegan leather include:

Lacks the durability and lifespan of genuine leather
Not breathable
Can melt when exposed to fire
Not fully biodegradable due to its plastic components

In a study conducted by Michael Meyer, Sascha Dietrich, Haiko Schulz, and Anke Mondschein from the FILK Freiberg Institute gGmbH in Freiberg, Germany, various vegan leathers were compared to animal hides to find an alternative with similar properties.

Unfortunately, the study found that no vegan leather could match genuine leather’s tensile strength, tear resistance, flexibility, and water resistance. While some vegan leathers excel in specific areas, they often fall short in others, highlighting the challenges in replicating animal leather.

9. Common Items Made With Vegan Leather

Vegan leather aims to replace traditional leather products across the board. Nearly any item made from leather can also be found in a vegan leather version, which is perfect for those who prefer animal-free options but want a wide range of choices. Common items made with vegan leather include:

Bags
Purses
Jackets
Shoes
Clothing
Belts
Wallets
Furniture
Watch straps
Accessories

10. Our Personal Research Into Vegan Leather

Vegan leather often gets labeled as an inferior, artificial material, yet it has eco-friendly features, especially as newer types work to change this perception.

10.1 Limiting Plastic Use

The main issue with vegan leather is its reliance on plastics like PU and PVC, which aren’t biodegradable. Newer options, such as cactus and apple leather, reduce plastic content to around 50%, while mushroom mycelium and pineapple leaf leathers bring plastic use down to 20% or even eliminate it, though at the cost of durability.

What's % of Plastic Used in Vegan Leather Types

PU: Nearly 100%
PVC: Nearly 100%
Cactus: 50%
Apple: 50%
Mycelium (mushroom): 20%
Pineapple leaf: 20%

10.2 Water Usage

Traditional leather tanning requires over 1,000 liters of water for each hide, whereas vegan leather is much more water-efficient. For instance, mushroom leather production only uses around 45 liters of water, significantly reducing environmental impact and supporting efforts to lower the carbon footprint associated with leather production.

11. Is Vegan Leather Better for the Environment?

Vegan leather is often praised for being more eco-friendly, and there’s some truth to this. It eliminates the need for animals and significantly reduces water usage. However, because it still relies on plastics, it lacks biodegradability.

While vegan leather is a net positive for the environment, its reliance on plastics and shorter lifespan can create additional waste. Until plastics are phased out, it’s tough to consider it a fully sustainable solution.

12. How To Care for Vegan Leather?

Caring for vegan leather is simple. Since the surface is made of plastic, it’s fairly water-resistant. If it gets dirty, just wipe it down with a damp cloth.

It’s also important to condition vegan leather periodically, as it can become rigid and crack over time. To condition, use a clean cloth to apply the conditioner evenly, then wipe away any excess with a separate cloth to dry the surface.

13. Closing Thoughts

Vegan leather has made significant strides, becoming a popular choice for those seeking animal-free, eco-friendly alternatives. While it doesn’t yet match the durability or longevity of real leather, it offers unique benefits, such as lower water usage and a potential for more sustainable sourcing.

Though vegan leather’s reliance on plastics is still a challenge, ongoing innovations are driving the industry toward solutions that are both high-performing and environmentally friendly. In the future, we may even see vegan leather that’s completely free of plastic.

For now, vegan leather remains an affordable, ethical, and stylish option for many everyday products. By choosing vegan leather, consumers can support the demand for more conscious, sustainable materials—helping to shape a better world for animals and the environment alike.

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